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It likewise fixes thatch problems by producing a great environment for microbes that degrade thatch. Core aerators are offered for leasing at many hardware stores and equipment suppliers. Use self-propelled systems with vertically running branches when possible; branches installed on drum rollers are less effective because they pull shallower cores.

Two to 4 passes with the core aerator suffice. Lawn Aeration and Topdressing describes equipment options and technique in higher information. Successfully growing turfgrass in the shade can be difficult. Turfgrass plants are naturally adjusted to grow in full sun to partial shade. Greatly shaded grass often thins or dies, permitting invasion by moss, algae, and shade-loving weeds such as wood violet (Viola spp.) and Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea).

For finest outcomes, plant mixes consisting of at least 50% great fescues for dry, shaded conditions. For moist, shaded conditions plant mixtures with at least 10% supina bluegrass (P. supina).

Apply fertilizer at the exact same time as for turf in warm areas but cut the rate in half. Using the full rate on shaded grass temporarily increases leaf development and prevents vigorous root growth; eventually the grass dies as the root system can no longer provide sufficient water and nutrients to the leaves.

Research shows the leaves can be mulched into the lawn without harming the grass, as long as the blades of turf remain 12 inches above the mulched tree leaves. For some locations, shade-tolerant groundcovers or mulches may be a better option than turfgrass. Describe Growing Turf in Shade for a listing of plants adjusted to low-light locations.

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They invade any place grass is weak or thin. Excellent cultural management practices (mowing, fertilization, and watering) will encourage development of thick, healthy turf and crowd out and avoid weeds. In fact, with appropriate mowing and timely fertilization alone you can avoid between 70 and 90% of all weed problems. Herbicides ought to be utilized just as a last hope to curb a weed issue.

Select an herbicide based on its capability to manage the target weed(s). Factors to consider include the type of weed and the life cycle of the weed (annual, biennial, or perennial).

Other herbicides are packaged to be applied using a garden tube. Do not acquire more herbicide than you will use within 1 year.

If you prepare to overseed, follow the instructions on the label to make sure the herbicide application does not prevent germination of the seed. Lots of herbicides specify for only particular kinds of weeds; these are described selective herbicides. Nonselective herbicides (e.g., Roundup, Kleenup) will kill any plant that soaks up the herbicide.

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Read the label on the herbicide container to determine if the product will manage the type(s) of weeds in your turf. Common grassy weeds in turf include crabgrass, foxtail, and quackgrass.

Pre-emergent herbicides are used to manage weeds before they show up, usually in early spring. Preemergent herbicides are used mainly for control of yearly weeds (weeds that live only 1 year) such as crabgrass. Use post-emergent herbicides when weeds show up. Postemergent herbicides can control yearly, biennial (2-year life process), or perennial weeds (live forever).

Weed and feed items include both an herbicide and a fertilizer. Weed and feed items are attractive because it appears as if both weed control and fertility requirements can be accomplished with one application.

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The post-emergent products often stop working to sufficiently control weeds since the weeds soak up too little of the herbicide. For best outcomes, do not rely on weed and feed items. Rather, fertilize with fertilizer alone according to the schedules listed in. When needed, utilize stand-alone preemergent herbicides to avoid invasions of annual weeds such as crabgrass.